Dried fish as far as the eye can see

Spent the morning exploring Kumasi's vast open-air market (at 12 hectares, reputedly west Africa's largest). A place of frenetic activity and pungent smells, where the narrow alleyways between rows of stalls serve as non-stop conduits for people rushing past with mountains of goods balanced on their heads. No dawdling here!

Almost everyone was friendly and welcoming, the exception being the stallholders in a small area just outside the market who were aggressive and angry (something spiritual happening?). The labyrinth of alleyways is somewhat bewildering, but far from chaotic - the market has well-defined areas of specialism. A busy acre of dried fish yields to stock cubes and tinned tomatoes, beyond which lie the saucepans and other kitchenware.

A feast for the senses! We were eventually defeated by the baking sun and din, and have sought sanctuary in the nearby Vic Baboo's cafe, for authentic local delights such as Hawaiian pizza and burgers .

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